Watch: I went from the best of budget travel to full luxury experience on holiday in Dubai

I was invited to experience the United Arabic Emirates city of Dubai by the tourist board for a ‘budget to blowout’ experience. Flying direct from Glasgow Airport in late September there was a fair heat at 40C, a welcome break from a weak Scottish summer. We relaxed at poolside, indulged in traditional cuisine and embraced Arabic customs.

Traditional Emirati Brunch

The first excursion on the itinerary was a traditional Emirati brunch hosted at the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU), a restored wind tower house located in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood in Old Dubai, just a short drive from the accommodation. It is a one hour interactive learning experience hosted by an Emirati cultural expert who presents the meal alongside an open discussion.

We were warmly welcomed with Arabic coffee and dates and seated on thick cushions lining a red and blue patterned rug which covered the floor of the courtyard, a surfa I believe this is called. At the centre was a row of metal casks each holding separate dishes. Our host explained and demonstrated how native families and communities interact and how elements of their culture - the meaning behind specific aspects of presentation, setting and gestures - ultimately define the dining experience. How socialisation and nutrition are held in ceremonial regard.

After this initial discussion we were invited to try the food which was served as a buffet. Dishes included chicken biryani, balaleet (vermicelli pasta mixed with scrambled eggs), dango (chickpeas in a light chilli broth), chicken nashif, khameer (sweet flatbread made with herbs and spices), and topped off with a dessert of lugaimat (round sweet dough balls with date syrup).

The building would have once housed a family. A tall tower over the courtyard was strategically designed to capture wind and cool the home, an example of traditional architecture common in this part of the world before the invention of air conditioning.

Dubai Frame

“We have the biggest mall, biggest building, even the deepest swimming pool. Dubai holds many records for having the largest of things,” the driver exuberantly stated. Our second stop was the Dubai Frame which at just over 150 metres is the tallest frame in the world. A zesty yellow and gold structure cutting against a rich blue cloudless backdrop, it stands independently filling an otherwise untouched pocket of skyline.

Beginning with an interactive exhibit offering an account of how the land evolved from a sparing desert into the glowing field of megastructures it is today, a lift then transported us to the top of the frame, its transparent exterior displaying an opening landscape. Once at peak the views are vast with wall to wall windows and a strip of glass along the floor presenting a rather disorientating perspective of the height. Rows upon rows of flat pale roofs are unveiled at one side of the frame, this is the old city which stretches as far as Earth’s natural curve, a hazy sea lining the edge. The other side shows the fresher part of town, the extensive pool of modern architecture Dubai is now renowned for displayed in a single frame of vision. The structure is literal in all its senses.

Platinum Heritage Desert Safari

Later that afternoon the group was collected in a large leather four by four and transported to the desert for our Heritage Safari. Driving down an interminable highway our driver shared information on the structures standing parallel to the trail of vehicles and used personal anecdotes to explain how the city has developed since he arrived from Pakistan in 2003. He remained with us throughout the excursion as our conservation guide.

Arriving in the sandy plain we were immersed into the setting, dressed in brightly coloured headscarves and given complimentary metal water bottles. We transferred into an open top 50s Land Rover and set off on a one hour nature tour, driving on a golden powdery track indulging the breeze. We stopped at various points for lessons on local wildlife, to explore the shrubbery and for photo opportunities. We then watched a live falconry show as the sun set, burning into a dusky landscape.

Our final destination was an authentic torch-lit Bedouin camp where we were greeted with coffee and dates, and then guided to stone and clay cooking stations to witness bread preparation and meat charring, sweet and slightly metallic aromas engulfing the atmosphere. We soon consumed these dishes as part of a traditional four course feast which included flavours and textures I’d not previously encountered, and what I did recognise had been prepared following an Emirati recipe. We experienced culture and history through taste, our palettes and minds broadened. The night closed in with an interactive drum performance and an all-so-endearing astrology lesson.

DRIFT Beach

Dubai is shrouded in opulence and this is the only aspect of its character I had conceived before this visit having conducted research solely through the lens of social media. I expected visual luxury and not much else, experiences designed around what is camera-worthy. But the previous day’s activities demonstrated there is substance behind the shimmery skylines and the city does amply express its rich and cultural foundations. For a travel destination this is important as it offers unique appeal among other potential locations - anywhere can be dressed up.

By this point my suspicions had been dismantled and my affection convinced. Thus, a trip to DRIFT Beach was a pleasurable recuperation following a busy day of activities. Dubai is multi-dimensional and approaches all its sides with seriousness and decorum.

DRIFT notes the French Riviera as the influence behind its aesthetic, evident in the chic yet sophisticated design and serene atmosphere. Stretching across sixty five acres it holds a pool, bar, restaurant, comfortable cabanas and sun loungers, a DJ deck and private beach access. We caught the club fresh from refurbishment on a Sunday morning, our only intention to relax.

Against a panoramic backdrop of Dubai’s tall and shiny skyline we sipped negronis beside the balmy lagoon, soaking in the heat and relishing in the moment. At lunchtime we headed to the restaurant - classic French cuisine with an emphasis on locally sourced produce and fresh organic ingredients. I indulged the king prawns doused in a succulent smoky sauce infused with garlic and chill to start, rounded off with seafood and orzo pasta coated in a light lemony bisque paired with an ice cold glass of Sauvignon blanc.

Frying Pan Adventures

In the evening we travelled to the Souks, a collection of markets located on the Deira side of Dubai Creek. The area plays a significant role in the city’s cultural identity, historically it is where merchants from across the world would gather to exchange goods. And while the structural fabric of this area has evolved through a process of artificial land reclamation that the UAE has become notable for it has retained original infrastructure. It boasts colour palettes, patterns, materials and charm derived from Middle Eastern customs. Comprised of locals and tourists there to browse gold, spices, textiles and perfume, our visit was driven by food.

We participated in a Frying Pan Adventure tasting walk which consists of a tour around the Souks, stopping at vendors for snacks made of ingredients and recipes intrinsic to the location. The experience engaged multiple senses as surrounding sights, scents and sounds worked coherently with tastes and textures to lucidly illustrate a narrative. To conclude, we travelled across the Creek on a traditional wooden boat for a meal at the Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant, noted in the Michelin Guide, of Emirati cuisine.

Final Thoughts

I had never considered visiting Dubai before this trip, while I recognised its general popularity as a tourist destination the idea never appealed to me. Being in the situation to book a holiday I tend to find the initial process of selecting a location tedious, I’m usually seeking a comprehensive experience which is the limitation of many places. I want to sunbathe by a beach but I also want to explore a city, enrich my mind by delving into the veins of another culture. I want to be active and adventurous but I also want the option to slow down and dress up for a nice dinner. With debilitating decisiveness steered by doubts, a choice is usually only made after negotiating desires.

I did not anticipate the breadth and depth of Dubai’s offering. Across a three day itinerary we participated in a spectrum of activities indulging in the city’s grandeur, learning about its rich heritage and ultimately developing an affection. It attracts visitors for a range of different reasons and is rightly confident in its delivery.

Travel

Travelling to the UAE from Scotland is seamless with Emirates operating daily direct flights to Dubai from both Edinburgh and Glasgow airports. The Edinburgh service was reinstated earlier this month after being halted in 2020, welcomed back on 6 November by bagpipers from the Royal Military Tattoo. This move broadens tourism potential for the number of people visiting Scotland and also for Scots planning to travel elsewhere. DXB is one of the largest airports in the world and thus, holds ample opportunity for connecting flights. This has proved a popular route for people going to destinations including Australia and Thailand.

Activities

SMCCU

• The Emirati Brunch is priced from 130 AED (£27) per personhttp://www.cultures.ae/program/cultural-meals.

Dubai Frame

• A ticket to Dubai Frame is priced from 50 AED (£10.45) per person http://www.thedubaiframe.com/

Frying Pan Adventures

• The Dubai Souks and Creekside Food Walk is priced from 435 AED (£90.87) per person http://www.fryingpanadventures.com/food-tours-in-dubai.

Platinum Heritage

• The Platinum Heritage ‘Heritage Safari by vintage Land Rover’ is priced from 695 AED (£145) per person http://www.uae.platinum-heritage.com/heritage-safari

Saray Spa

• The Fragrant Stone Massage is priced from 950 AED (£197) per person https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/dxbjw-jw-marriott-marquis-hotel-dubai/spa/

DRIFT Beach

• Events can booking information can be found at https://driftbeachdubai.com/calendar/

Xclusive Yachts

• Packages and booking information can be found at https://xclusiveyachts.com

Hotels

Al Seef Heritage Hotel

• Nightly rates at Al Seef Heritage Hotel start from 845 AED (£176) in a King Heritage Room with breakfast www.hilton.com/en/hotels/dxbasqq-al-seef-heritage-hotel-dubai

Anantara The Palm

• Nightly rates at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort start from 2350 AED (£480) in a Premier Lagoon Access Room with breakfast www.anantara.com/palm-dubai