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Mrs Keillor’s Original Dundee Marmalade

2lb Seville or bitter oranges; 2 lemons; 4pt water; 4lb preserving sugar.

Wash the oranges and lemons and put, whole, into a large saucepan or preserving pan, add the water, and put the lid on. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 1½ hours so that you can easily pierce the fruit. When they are ready, take them out and leave them on a big dish to cool. With a sharp knife, slice them into the thickness you like, and remove any pips. Add these pips to the juice, boil for 10 minutes, then strain. Add the sliced fruit to the juice and bring to the boil; then add the sugar. Stir over a gentle heat until it is dissolved, then boil up rapidly, without stirring, for about ½ hour, or until setting point (approximately 220F) is attained. A small spoonful put on to a cold saucer will ‘wrinkle’ up when the dish is tilted – if the marmalade is cooked enough. Pour into warmed jars, and cover at once. Makes about 4lb. [From Theodora Fitzgibbon: A Taste of Scotland]

Mrs Beeton’s Marmalade Sauce

“As marmalade is a Scottish creation this could be termed a traditional Scottish sauce,” writes Theodora Fitzgibbon in Traditional Scottish Cookery, and describes Mrs Beeton’s method in her Food of the Western World: “make from 1 cup orange marmalade and ¼ pint (½ cup) white wine stirred together in a saucepan over a gentle heat until very hot, then strained. It is served with steamed puddings, pancakes, sweet omelettes or sweet batter pudding.”

Hot Marmalade Pudding

A signature dish of The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye, from the restaurant’s cookbook by Shirley Spear.

150g fine brown breadcrumbs; 120g soft light brown sugar; 25g self-raising wholemeal flour (white self-raising would do); 120g fresh butter, plus extra for greasing the bowl; 8tbsp well-flavoured, coarse-cut marmalade (home-made is always best); 3 large eggs; 1 rounded tsp bicarbonate of soda plus 1tbsp water to mix.

Butter a 3 pint pudding basin well. Place the breadcrumbs, flour and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Melt the butter together with the marmalade, in a saucepan over a gentle heat. Pour the melted ingredients over the dry ingredients and mix together thoroughly. Whisk the eggs until frothy and beat gently into the mixture until blended together well. Last of all, dissolve the bicarbonate of soda in 1 tablespoonful of cold water. Stir this into the pudding mixture, which will increase in volume as it absorbs the bicarbonate of soda. Spoon the mixture into the prepared basin. Cover it with a close-fitting lid, or alternatively, make a lid with circles of buttered greaseproof paper and foil, pleated together across the centre and tied securely around the rim of the basin. Place the pudding basin in a saucepan of boiling water. The water should reach halfway up the side of the basin. Cover the pan with a close-fitting lid and simmer the pudding for 2 hours. The water will need topping up throughout the cooking period. Turn out on to a serving dish, slice and serve hot, with fresh cream, ice cream – or Drambuie custard.

Marmalade Ice Cream with Fresh Oranges

“Marmalade ice cream is one of the easiest you can make,” writes Sarah Raven in her Garden Cookbook: “You can do it in an ice cream maker, but you don’t need to. Just mix the marmalade with the cream, yoghurt and juice, pour it into a Tupperware box and put it into your freezer. You don’t even need to stir it.”

For the ice cream: 350g Seville marmalade; 300ml double cream; 300ml full-fat natural yoghurt; 3 tbsp orange juice.

For the oranges: 6 oranges; 1 heaped tbsp Seville marmalade; a little freshly grated nutmeg.

To make the ice cream, put the marmalade, cream, yoghurt and orange juice into an ice cream machine and freeze/churn for 20 minutes. You might want to sieve out a bit of the orange peel beforehand. Pack into plastic containers and freeze. Allow 20 minutes in the fridge before serving the ice cream. Meanwhile, peel the oranges, getting rid of every bit of pith and then cut them into segments. Collect as much of the juice as possible as you slice. Put the fruit and juice into a bowl and stir in the marmalade. Grate a little nutmeg over the bowl.

Marmalade and Oatmeal Gingerbread

“In and around Dundee, marmalade is not only used in cakes, it is often mixed into cloutie dumpling,” writes Sue Lawrence in her cookbook Scottish Kitchen, which also yielded this recipe, similar to an ‘Orkney broonie’: an oatmeal-based gingerbread from Orkney.

225g/8oz butter; 225g/8oz unrefined molasses sugar; 300ml/½ pint milk; 225g/8oz marmalade; 325g/11½oz plain flour, sifted; 40g/1½oz medium oatmeal; 1 tbsp ground ginger; ¼ tsp ground nutmeg; 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda; 2 medium free-range eggs, beaten; 4-5 balls of stem ginger, chopped finely; 100g/ 3½oz sultanas or raisins. Serves 10.

Preheat the oven to 150C/300F. Butter a 23cm/9in square cake tin and line with greaseproof paper. Heat the first 4 ingredients together gently in a pan until the butter has melted, then allow to cool. Mix the dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and make a hollow in the centre. Slowly pour in the melted mixture, stirring all the time so a smooth batter is formed. Beat in the eggs, then stir in the stem ginger and sultanas or raisins. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin and bake in the preheated oven for 1½-2 hours until the cake is well risen and firm in the centre. A cocktail stick inserted into the middle should come out clean. Let the gingerbread cool in the tin. Store the gingerbread, whole and well wrapped in foil, in an airtight tin, for two days before eating.

Caledonian Cream

“An easy mix of lively flavours,” writes Catherine Brown in Classic Scots Cookery, “that were first combined by Mrs Dalgairns (circa 1829), the nineteenth century cookery writer, when she mixed minced marmalade, brandy and the juice of a lemon through a couple of pints of cream.”

2 large sweet Spanish navel oranges; 300ml (10fl oz) whipping cream; 2 heaped tablespoons Seville marmalade; 2-3 tablespoons brandy; lemon juice to taste; sugar to taste.

Strip the zest from the oranges with a zester into the bowl of a food processor. Cut off all the white pith and remove each segment of the orange with a sharp knife, avoiding the white pith. Squeeze out any remaining juice from the leftover pith and put it in the base of a glass serving dish. Add the marmalade and brandy to the orange zest in the processor and blend until smooth (this can also be used as a sauce). Add all but two teaspoonfuls to the cream. Mix and add sugar and lemon juice, and pour on top of oranges. Sprinkle the remaining teaspoonfuls on top and swirl with a knife. Serve chilled.

Marmalade & Hard Cheese

“Cheese with all sorts of fruits – grapes, apples, pears, quince – is, of course, completely uncontroversial,” writes Niki Segnit in The Flavour Thesaurus, “yet Cheddar with marmalade is apt to raise eyebrows. But think about a rich, salty, mature Cheddar and how delicious it might be cut through by the bittersweetness of marmalade. For a sandwich, try grating the cheese and using a fine-cut marmalade.”

Wild Duck with Port Wine Sauce

2 wild ducks; juice of 1 lemon; 4 rashers streaky bacon; 1 tsp mushroom ketchup (optional); 2 tbsp butter or oil; 8 tbsp port wine; 2 level tbsp. orange marmalade; salt, cayenne pepper and black pepper.

Cover the breasts with the bacon and put into a roasting tin with the fat or oil, then cook in a moderate oven (350F) for about 35 minutes. Before serving, the bacon should be removed (it can be used as a garnish) and the breasts scored along the breastbone, two or three times, then sprinkled with salt and pepper. Pour the port wine and the lemon juice over, and put them back in the oven for 5 minutes. Put the birds on to a warmed dish and reduce the pan juices on top of the stove with the marmalade, and mushroom ketchup if added. If liked, the birds can be flambéed by having 2 tablespoons warmed brandy poured over them, and then set alight. This should be done at the table. The gravy is served separately. [From Theodora Fitzgibbon’s A Taste of Scotland]